Steinbloß - simply typical Mühlviertel
A journey on the trail of stone treasures
"What do you spontaneously think of when you think of the Mühlviertel? What is typical of the region north of the Danube?", I ask some acquaintances and self-confessed Mühlviertel enthusiasts before I start my journey into the granite heights. "A good beer", "one hill after another", "beautiful nature with stunning views" and "the typical grey and white farmhouses" is what I hear.
All right, I know about the Mühlviertel's long beer tradition - and nobody can deny that the granite highlands are quite hilly and that you can catch great views over the unspoilt landscape. But what's the story behind these strangely spotted farms? I set off to get to the bottom of the mystery on a discovery tour through the Mühlviertel.
I quickly realise that the traditional Steinbloß building style still characterises the granite highlands today. The old Steinbloß facades of the farms nestle beautifully in the gentle Mühlviertel hills. But what is a real feast for the eyes for passing hikers like me is evidence of the hardship of days gone by.
Lime was rare and expensive - and so the gifts of nature had to be utilised with craftsmanship and ingenuity. "So the first settlers in the Mühlviertel turned to the wealth of their fields - after all, they had and still have enough stones!" a farmer tells me, who catches me taking photos of the Steinbloß farms and promptly starts a conversation with me. "Every time the fields are ploughed, the grey granite boulders appear."
They were painstakingly "picked" from the fields to build the typical Steinbloß courtyards and carefully piled up stone by stone - with the flat side facing outwards - to form double-walled walls and filled with sand and earth. To withstand wind and weather, the simple stone construction was grouted with clay and lime. However, years of weathering washed away the paint in many places, revealing the grey granite field stones between the white plaster surfaces. The stoa became bare!
What seems so simple keeps out the heat of summer days thanks to the heavy granite stones and, in return, stores the cosy warmth in the parlour for a long time in winter. The best Mühlviertel architecture, which still characterises the region today, was born out of necessity!
Forgotten, hidden and rediscovered!
On my journey of discovery through the hilly landscape of the Mühlviertel, I keep finding these old Steinbloß farms hidden away. The lush green of the meadows and forests complements the grey and white spotted facades perfectly. Between the vastness of the landscape, it almost seems to me as if the lovingly decorated houses here have been forgotten by time.
Fascinated by the almost romantic look of the courtyards, I ask why the traditional building style is rarely used nowadays. "You need a hole, you get a city gate!" - the answer probably says it all. Nowadays, most people shy away from the effort involved and the limited flexibility of the conversions. So I am all the more pleased when I learn that the witnesses to the old architecture are now well protected and lovingly renovated by many builders.
Steinbloß in a modern scene
Trendy feel-good oases interpret the Mühlviertel Steinbloß style in a completely new way:
At the Falkensteiner Hotel & Spa in Bad Leonfelden and the INNs HOLZ Natur- & Vitalhotel in the Bohemian Forest, a sense of home meets the spirit of the times, Mühlviertel architecture meets modern architecture.
Falkensteiner Hotel & SPA Bad Leonfelden****
The lifestyle hotel skilfully combines modern architecture with regional accents.
INNs HOLZ Nature & Vitality Hotel****
Construction and style in harmony with the natural Mühlviertel hills.
On the trail of the Steinbloß
3 top hiking routes for your exploration tour on the trail of stone treasures:
Steinbloß-Mauer-Weg in Hirschbach
A total of 24 of these magnificent grey and white specimens can be found along the 12.5 km Steinbloß-Mauer-Weg in Hirschbach im Mühlkreis. The circular route, which takes a good three hours and is easy to master even for inexperienced hikers with an altitude difference of only around 150 metres, is entirely dedicated to the diversity of stones. In addition to the typical Steinbloß farmsteads, the hiking trail also leads along places of devotion and places of power in nature designed with stones.
Kammerer cross in Kaltenberg
The Kammerer cross towers imposingly at 989 metres in Silberberg near Kaltenberg and, as a mountain chapel, marks the highest point of the popular pilgrimage and hiking trail "Johannesweg". The Steinbloß chapel can accommodate around 70 visitors and is a much-loved viewing and resting place. The Kammererberg can be hiked not only on the Johannesweg, but also as part of a half-day round trip from Kaltenberg. The Silberberger hiking trail leads from the town centre to the pilgrimage chapel and back in around 4 hours.
Along the granite path to the Hoisnhaus and the famous Hoisn chapel
The Hoisn Chapel in Wienau near Weitersfelden is truly unique. The impressive granite stone chapel in genuine stone block construction consists exclusively of granite stones worked by farmers. The approximately 10 kilometre circular hiking trail leads from Weitersfelden via Haid to Wienau. Along the entire route, as well as on the way back via the village of Eipoldschlag, you can discover small granite monuments and rustic Steinbloß farms time and again.
Where do I look first?
MY TIP: The village of Ottenschlag - an enchanting "Stoabloß village" in the heart of the Mühlviertel.
22 old stone houses built in traditional Mühlviertel architecture are lined up here wall to wall. On the way from Freistadt to Bad Leonfelden, a short detour to the south is definitely worthwhile!
Just don't walk!
Those who prefer to explore the Mühlviertel on two wheels will not be disappointed with the Steinbloßrunde. The beautiful cycle route attracts visitors with numerous traditional Steinbloß farms!
Not just stones: Life in the granite highlands
The grey and white mottled farms are not only witnesses of the times, but also reflect the culture north of the Danube - I really became aware of this on my journey through the granite highlands. And the Mühlviertel's cultural heritage was characterised above all by the hard work that the harsh natural environment has always demanded of the people there and the resulting craftsmanship.
An impression of life in the Mühlviertel is provided by the region's numerous museums and show businesses.
Lasberg market forge
The old smithy, which was painstakingly built by hand in 1526 in the Steinbloß style and is one of the oldest houses in the village, provides an insight into the working world of a blacksmith and wagon maker. Until 1953, harrow teeth, door hinges, window grilles, plough irons and axes were made here and wheels were shod. The old market forge in Lasberg has been preserved and furnished in its original state and is truly a special and unique attraction.
Edlmühle - Farmhouse Furniture Museum
The former Edlmühle, which now houses the Hirschbach Farmhouse Furniture Museum, is a prime example of a Steinbloßhof farmhouse. The museum conveys the baroque, rural living culture of the 18th century. The colourful Hirschbach farmhouse furniture is an impressive testimony to life on a Mühlviertel farm.
Cider Museum Neumarkt
In the cider museum at the "Wirt z'Trosselsdorf", you can see the historical equipment used to produce cider. Until 1981, buckets of cider were pressed in the Miesenberger family's barn-like press house. A horse even had to be led up the steps to the upper floor, where it patiently did its rounds and drove the mighty "Göppel", which in turn crushed the cider fruit and extracted the fresh juice.
Celebrate, eat and sleep in the Mühlviertler Steinbloßhaus
Unique festivals in a unique setting, traditional home cooking in the Kulturwirtshaus, beer tasting in the Tragweiner Gut and then spending the night in the rustic Steinbloß farmhouse: special tips for lovers of Mühlviertel architecture!
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